Art Deco’s Limited Influence on Indian Fashion Sparks Discussion

Earlier this year, stylist Law Roach commissioned Delhi designer Rahul Mishra to create a custom outfit for singer-actor Ariana Grande. The dress, inspired by Art Deco, was showcased during the promotion of the film Wicked: Part Two. Grande wore the striking black gown on November 7, featuring silver-grey 3D high-rise buildings, reminiscent of the Emerald City from The Wizard of Oz.

This moment highlights a broader question: why does Art Deco, an architectural style that celebrates geometric design and modernist glamour, have a limited presence in Indian fashion? As Art Deco marks its centennial this year, its influence remains predominantly visible in architecture and industrial arts within India. While numerous research papers explore its impact on design, the fashion sector has seen little representation of this iconic style.

Art Deco first gained global recognition at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris in 1925. In India, its presence is evident in the cemented railings of Mumbai and the havelis of Jaipur, as well as in the striking designs of jewellery and furniture. However, the same cannot be said for Indian fashion collections over the past decades.

According to Tina Tahiliani, founder of Ensemble, a multi-designer fashion store, “You will see a few occasional pieces here and there.” She notes that designers such as Abu Jani Sandeep, Gaurav Gupta, Tarun Tahiliani, and Manish Malhotra have occasionally incorporated Art Deco elements into their work, yet entire collections dedicated to this style remain rare.

The recent Art Deco Alive festival in Mumbai, which celebrates the city’s rich collection of Art Deco buildings, featured a fashion exhibition that included notable pieces like a flapper-style dress from Tarun Tahiliani and a silver-encrusted lehenga-choli by Manish Malhotra. This festival aimed to showcase how the style influenced not just architecture but also fashion.

Art Deco emerged after World War I, representing a shift towards modernity and freedom in design. In India, the style appears more in motifs and weaves than in the silhouettes and embroidery that have become popular today. Mishra’s recent collection, Pale Blue Dot, debuted on January 27, 2023, and marked his first full embrace of Art Deco aesthetics. He described the collection as presenting an apocalyptic scenario, emphasizing strong lines and a monochromatic palette that reflects both darkness and geometry.

The Mumbai-based couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla also presented an Art Deco-inspired piece during a recent runway show. The ensemble depicted the iconic Purana Qila in silver embroidery, showcasing the architectural style’s narrative potential. Despite the allure of Art Deco, many viewers in India remain unfamiliar with its nuances, particularly in fashion.

Smiti Kanodia, co-founder of Art Deco Alive, noted the challenge of raising awareness about Art Deco fashion. While curating a style guide for a 1920s-themed event, she discovered that many attendees struggled to grasp the concept of Art Deco fashion. “It has been part of our culture, our pop culture, for a long time,” Kanodia stated, referencing the glamorous styles seen in Bollywood during the 1970s and 1980s.

According to designer David Abraham, the vastness of traditional Indian design vocabulary contributes to the limited adoption of Art Deco in fashion. He explained that while geometric motifs appear in Indian fashion history, they have not been consciously integrated on a large scale. The intricacies involved in creating an embroidered Art Deco piece also present challenges, as demonstrated by the one-month effort of over 25 artisans who worked on Grande’s gown.

As the Indian fashion industry continues to evolve, there is potential for greater integration of Art Deco elements. While the historical context and cultural differences have shaped the current landscape, emerging designers may begin to explore this rich aesthetic more fully in future collections. The conversation surrounding Art Deco in Indian fashion is just beginning, and its future remains an open canvas for creative exploration.